The S and M Fashion Trend

Many magazine editors are calling the latest straps and wraps showcased on many runways the Spring S and M trend or the Helmut Newton Trend. Helmut Newton was a seventies photographer who specialized in taking portraits of beautiful models in post rape and death scenes. Often they wore glamorous gowns but were strapped, gagged and bound.

 

The fashions on the runway for spring have a similar flair with lots of belts, buckles, wraps and other accessories.  Everything is black, a dark coal or a flesh tone in hue. Dark coal and a light purplish grey color were also seen on the runway.  A key item seen in many collections was the leather peplum top that is very tailored and the mid-length leather skirt.  The designer at Moda Operandi paired a bra, a plain leather jacket with ribbed cuffs and a zip and a ribbed collar with a silk bra, no top and a just below the knee skirt.

 

Nina Ricci features a top that looked like black rags sewn together in a haphazard way draped to mid-length below the knee.  Beneath the top was a sheer polka dot op from which trailed a single strap with a buckle that was not meant to be done up but instead bounce against the upper thigh as the model walked.

 

The Jean Paul version was a short capelet style top that was attached to a skirt by a web of straps that looked like bird cage. The tights on this outfit were also large crossed straps that were in turn linked to very high platforms with turned up toes.

 

Michael Kors has done an interesting mini dress for spring that features a high neck with a low-waisted belt that is reminiscent of the big metal Pierre Cardin belts.  The Rodarte version of a mini dress is made of leather, built to look like muscle top on top and flared at the bottom – almost like a tennis dress but in leather.

 

Versace boasted some bizarre shoes. From the open toe to the knee cap was a series of leather straps attached to a very tall leather heel. At Salvatore Ferragamo the Helmut newton style sandal was open toed with a high heel and then leather wrapping from the top of the foot to above the knee. Prouenza Shouler showed a boot that was open toed and gridded at the back with a leather zip from the top of the foot to the knee.

 

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Top Couture Trends From Paris Runways

The couture fashion shows in Paris revealed some very interesting trends for fashion this Spring.   Valentino in particular, had some very interesting offerings.

 

One of the most evident was the imitation of wrought-iron grills that was done with the threading and embroidery in some of the fabrics.  This was a Valentino look done on floor-length couture gowns but we will likely see it translated to sheer dressed with embroidery on the front.  Also in evidence from Valentino was the high-shirred waist that comes up to just below the bosom.  High round necks and long sleeves were aloes very popular.  Some of the lace in his dresses was floral and reminiscent of drapery patterns.  The effect is very sixties; these dresses looked like something Anita Bryant might wear to the White House in 1978.

 

Valentino also showed a dress that was tight at the waist, had a high color and sprawling full A-line skirt. This was worn with high heel shoes in thin black theater that boasted a lot of toe cleavage.  Many of the dresses he showed in this style boasted large seventies styles graphics of flowers in the pink and brown color schemes.

 

Valentino also showed a lot of peplum looks on the run way including sheer peplum that was underlaid with layers of chiffon and a great deal of embroidery.  These looks were very formal and suitable for a wedding.  These sheer layered long skirts and high-necked frocks also came in ruched and tufted black versions. One super-sexy version was made in a hot tomato red sheer fabric that showed a sexy negligee and garters beneath a birdcage skirt made of peek-a-boo red netting.

 

Valentino also showed a few unstructured looks including a voluminous tie-dyed dress with enormous balloon like sleeves and a full flowing skirt.  This is a fairy tale look that is burnished with yellows and purple on a cream background giving the effect of a slightly mottled or vintage look.

 

Very little jewelry was shown with these looks possibly because all of the lace was so elaborate it.  Wearing these dresses is like wearing gigantic jewels.

 

Not all of the looks that Valentino showcased in Paris for Spring were frilly or decadent. One signature white dress was very plain and faired. It looked like the kind of seamless coatdress that glamor girls would wear on Star Trek. It also looked like something that Marlo Thomas would wear in “That Girl!”

 

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